Welcome to Dialed In, where we’ll highlight the very best, most interesting, and coolest new watches in the world.
The watch: the Tudor Black Bay Bronze in “Bucherer Blue”
The single best thing about this watch: Back in 2017, Tudor released a version of its Black Bay model with European retailer Bucherer. At the time of its original release, many compared it another special-edition with a bronze case but chestnut colored dial. The contrast with that deep-sea blue is what really makes the piece, though. But this new, bronzed version of the Black Bay was exclusive to Europe, so those without frequent flier miles to drain had to simply watch the release from afar. Nearly four years later, the watch is finally available stateside.
This Tudor Black Bay Bronze only slipped into the US market because Bucherer bought US retailer Tourneau in early 2018 and is slowly changing up their locations or transforming them fully into Bucherer stores. The real upside is this watch coming over in the move.
The backstory: What makes this version of the Tudor so compelling is the way it pulls from a few of Tudor’s best-loved models. The watch is similar to two other releases in Tudor’s existing lineup: the Black Bay Bronze with a dark grey dial and bezel and last year’s Black Bay Fifty Eight with navy blue features but a case made of stainless steel rather than bronze. The Bucherer version of the Black Bay inherited the best traits of both those pieces.
Beyond the case material, the details on the dial set the piece apart. Tudor’s signature snowflake hands are outlined in the bronze color that runs throughout the numerals on the bezel and even the text on the watch’s face. The watch is also paired with a tough-looking NATO strap in a matching color combination.
This watch matters in the world of watches because: The release is a result of Bucherer’s Blue program, which launched in 2016. Bucherer effectively found a way to turn the signature blue shade it’s used since the late 1800s into a powder keg of a franchise. The series has become a way for legendary brands to try something new: Audemars Piguet, IWC, Tag Heuer, Panerai, and Oris have all stepped into Bucherer’s blue world. Exclusive boutique editions of watches are hardly rare, but Bucherer’s approach is unique.
Buy, buy bronze? Over the last half of the 2010s, bronze boomed as a watch material. It’s not difficult to see why: bronze stands out in a sea of stainless steel pieces, and is more affordable than a fine metal like gold. But the reason bronze really collects fans is the way it ages. The outer layer of the metal oxidizes over time, so eventually every bronze model hitting the market will look completely unique. In a world where patina is prized almost nearly everything, a bronze watch is a big winner.
Where and when to buy it: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze “Bucherer Blue” is available for $4,150 exclusively at Tourneau now.