Rick Owens showed his Fall 2022 men’s collection in Paris yesterday, and it will literally light up your life. Shown in the dark basement of the Palais de Tokyo, it was a powerful sensory experience: strobe lights flashing, a Sisters of Mercy soundtrack blasting, and several models wearing towering Dan Flavin-ish fluorescent light sculptures as crowns.
Since I’m not in Paris this season to dart backstage after the show, Rick agreed to a little email exchange about the collection and its “GLAMSLEAZY LIGHT SEEKERS” who embody his desire to indulge his id. As he put it, “THE CLOTHES ARE SAYING ‘IF EXPANSIVE CLOTHES ARE POSSIBLE, PERHAPS EXPANSIVE THOUGHT IS POSSIBLE….’” Read our exchange and see images from his gnarly collection below.
RICK, I WRITE TO YOU IN YOUR NATIVE CAPS LOCK.
THX! I MEAN IT AS CHEERFUL PROCLAMATIONS NOT SHOUTING *
WHAT A SHOW. YOU’RE BACK AT THE PALAIS DE TOKYO FOR MEN’S FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE THE FALL 2020 COLLECTION. HOW DO YOU FEEL?
LOVE IT- THIS CRUMBLING ART DECO VALHALLA FORTRESS IS MY FAVORITE SPOT IN PARIS AND BEING ABLE TO SET MY WORK AGAINST SO MANY CORNERS OF IT HAS BEEN ONE OF THE GREATEST PRIVILEGES OF MY LIFE.
YOUR “GLAMSLEAZY LIGHT SEEKERS” WORE THESE AMAZING HEADPIECES MADE OF FLUORESCENT LIGHTBULBS. DID THEY PLUG IN WITH BATTERY PACKS? ARE THEY LIGHT, OR IS THIS A “HEAVY IS THE HEAD THAT WEARS THE CROWN” SITUATION?
THEY PLUGGED INTO BATTERY PACKS FOR THE MODELS TO CARRY BUT THESE HELMETS WILL BE OFFERED FOR SALE TO PLUG INTO THE WALL- THEY STAND ALONE AS LAMPS.
THAT REMINDED ME: FOR YOUR SHOW IN JUNE, YOUR MODELS HAD PERSONAL FOG MACHINES. DO YOU THINK HUMAN BEINGS ARE ULTIMATELY RESPONSIBLE FOR CREATING THEIR OWN ENERGY OR ARE WE CONSTANTLY IN PURSUIT OF OUTSIDE SOURCES THAT GIVE US ENERGY?
LIFE IS ABOUT COMMUNICATION AND PARTICIPATION- THE IDEAL SCENARIO WOULD BE TO BREATHE POSITIVE ENERGY IN AND BREATHE POSITIVE ENERGY OUT TO MOVE FORWARD AND PRODUCE MORE THAN WE CONSUME…..I’M STILL WORKING ON THAT….
YOU STARTED MAKING COATS WITH ENORMOUS SHOULDERS A FEW SEASONS AGO AND THEY’VE JUST KEPT GETTING BIGGER. THEY’RE A SIGNATURE NOW! HOW HAVE YOU CONTINUED TO EVOLVE THEIR SHAPE AND VOLUME? DO YOU EMPHASIZE DIFFERENT ASPECTS OF THE OUTERWEAR DEPENDING ON YOUR MOOD?
THE WORLD CAN BE CLUTTERED AND SLOPPY – SOMBER AND IMPOSING TAILORING IS A REST FOR MY EYE- A SENSE OF CONSIDERED RESTRAINT AND FORMALITY- WITH A NOD TO THE GROTESQUE…..LIKE PANNIERS OR BUSTLES OR PLATFORM SHOES….