Since 1999, Engineered Garments has consistently stayed a few steps ahead of the broader menswear landscape. Designer Daiki Suzuki’s left-of-center take on Americanish fashion—utilitarian garments, rugged sportswear, and smart suiting reimagined with unexpected patterns, cuts, and textures—leads instead of follows. In recent seasons, more labels and designers are embracing menswear’s wilder edges, in response to how many guys are looking to tap into a more effervescent way of dressing. And all of a sudden, it feels like Engineered Garments is the forerunner of new-wave American fashion—the label that plenty others are trying to catch. And they’ve found themselves there by merely doing the same thing they’ve been doing for years.
Like many before it, the latest Engineered Garments collection takes the essential pillars of modern menswear and has them all meet cleverly in the middle. If you want to look like the world’s most fly fisherman, the label has got you covered. A well-dressed Ivy League professor out of a Wes Anderson film? Got you covered. An art curator on their way out of the city to an apple orchard in the country? Check.
Engineered Garments offers clothes that weave in and out of the genres of workwear, suiting, and sportswear with ease. That means a plethora of sharp blazers and textured jackets, work shirts and cozy flannels, dressy trousers and tactical pants. Each piece is obsessively crafted. The result is a collection that is jam-packed with wares that are sure to appeal to every type of forward-thinking dresser.
Some piece are more accessible, like wool trousers with slouchy-enough fits and button-up shirts in familiar-looking fabrics. But they’re never boring: the button-ups are made of micro-sanded twill and feature pockets of contrasting sizes and shapes. Take one step deeper and you’ll find a cardigan sweater that has been mashed up with the trappings of a classic flannel, and a utility-heavy racing suit gets unexpectedly embroidered with delicate flowers. And at wildest edges are a leopard jacquard vest, a wool popover colored with swirls of ornate paisley, and a buttoned shawl of safety orange and navy. (Not to mention there is a two-piece suit offered in the same aforementioned leopard print.)
Here lies the Engineered Garments difference. Clothes that, at first glance, look like they might be found at Brooks Brothers or Carharrt or J.Crew but have been delightfully elevated to new heights. There is a certain artful cadence to their clothes, beautiful and meandering and unexpected. And even if something in the collection seems too far out, just give it some time—the rest of the world will eventually catch up.